Gul, a photo from Kuhistoni Badakhshon, East

Photographer's Note

In my last post I wrote several paragraphs about the transport I used in Tajikistan. This time, Im going to tell you about my accommodation.

Hands up those who thought I was going to say local people. You were also correct 😊

To make up for the lack of adventure (and the price) of my mode of travel from Dushanbe to Khorog, I decided to book a homestay rather than a hotel. I spent 4 nights in this ladys house. She was a traditional housewife and she always kept herself busy. She didnt do housework as such, it was her daughters-in-law who did the hard work, but she spent some time supervising what was going on in the house, especially the kitchen. And when she had nothing else to do she spent time turning wool into yarn. Always standing, never sitting. And she always had that cheeky smile on her face, especially while filling up my plate, making me eat more than I normally do

Unfortunately, we didnt have a language between us. She knew few words of Russian and spoke some Tajik (closely related to Persian, one of Western Iranian group of languages), while her mother tongue was Pamir (which belongs to Eastern Iranian language family). Instead, I spent many hours talking with her husband Tolek who spoke fluent Russian. I really enjoyed those conversations.

When Tolek had nothing else to do he would drive me around Khorog in his 4WD Toyota. Being driven by him was quite an adventure and made up for the boredom of the smooth (well, except the condition of the road) ride from Dushanbe to Khorog. The first time he gave me a lift he started with reversing into a gatepost in his own front yard. The next step was equally exciting - I still remember the horror on the petrol station owners face when Toleks car almost knocked a fuel pump over. Unfazed, we carried on and I noticed (although it may have been my imagination) that people quicken their pace, desperate to reach the pavement before the approach of the red Toyota. We still managed to almost hit a pedestrian, almost ran over a cat and narrowly avoided crashing into another car whose driver, how naively, thought that normal traffic rules applied and stopped at a crossing waiting to turn left thus becoming an obstacle on Toleks way forward. I felt like asking: Tolek, have you ever driven a tank, but I thought better of it.

I left Khorog the next day, planning to return a week later. I was looking forward to resuming our conversation about his life and family but, when I came back, I found out that Tolek had been taken to Dushanbe due to medical emergency, in need of a cardiology specialist unavailable in Khorog. I hope he is still alive.

You can see a photo of Tolek and another one of his and Gul's house in WS.

jemaflor, pajaran, holmertz, Silvio1953, lousat, Royaldevon, jhm, PiotrF, macjake, ChrisJ, sacimar, fotka, aliabazari, COSTANTINO oznaczył to zdjęcie jeko użyteczne

Critiques | Translate

Nicou (193806) 2019-11-14 20:28

Hello

quel portrait de cette dame une fileuse avec la petite boule de laine dans la main elle est habile une trčs belle attitude et un visages souriante splendide compo
Bravo et amitié
Nicou

Gerrit (62042) 2019-11-14 22:31

Hello Kasia,
She looks like she has things under control, self confidence and she does as you say she has her daughters-in-law to do the hard work. Fine portrait in good light,
Thanks and regards.
Gerrit

mesutilgim (0) 2019-11-14 22:45

Hello Kasia,
Very nice capture of this elderly woman practicising her traditional craft.
Taken with very good frontal view and sharpness.
Many good and usefull notes.
TFS and best regards
MESUT ILGIM

PS.Reading your rich and detailed notes I noticed, that you take your job quite seriously. Unfortunately the number of "this" kind of members gets lesser and lesser. :-(

emka (157280) 2019-11-14 22:51

Witaj Kasiu
Pozniej przeczytam o Ywoich przygodach w Tadzykistanie. W Omanie bardzo mi sie podobalo. Przyroda fantastyczna a turytow nieduzo. Teraz czekam na lotnisku na samolot do Jeddy. Bardzo jestem ciekawa jak to bedzie.
Pozdrawiam serdecznie
M

jemaflor (146382) 2019-11-14 23:38

Hi Kasia,
A good scene and portrait, well made, good exposure and sharpness, interesting note, tfs.

holmertz (102066) 2019-11-15 0:52

Hello Kasia,
My question to Tolek (if I had been able to communicate at all) might have been "Have you ever driven anything at all". As usual your note is way above the average for information and amusement. It's also a very good portrait of Gul where the yarn is almost as important as her face and clothes. The sharpness and lighting are just wonderful. The WS are interesting complements. Did you need such a long time in Khorog for your paper work?
Best regards,
Gert

Silvio1953 (220717) 2019-11-15 1:22

Ciao Kasia, beautiful portrait of lovely woman at work, excellent clarity, fine details, splendid light and wonderful colors very well done, my friend, ciao Silvio

lousat (138683) 2019-11-15 2:51

Ciao Kasia,it is always very interesting to read your adventures that are very similar to those of Malgo. A pity that on your return the man was gone and we hope he is well now. Also very fun your "walks" with his car and the description of what you saw on the streets. The photos of his wife and husband are very beautiful, and even the house is really elegant. Have a nice weekend and thanks,Luciano

Royaldevon (85674) 2019-11-15 4:47

Hello Kasia,

A good follow-up to your introduction.
This lady has a real twinkle in her eyes. I get the impression that she is full of good humour but doesn't suffer fools lightly!
I was surprised by her house, which looked better than many hotels!

I hope her husband is well. He sounded like a friendly individual but one who needed a driving test! Maybe the trauma of his many driving incidents was responsible for his poor health.

My warm regards,
Bev :-)

Sergiom (117241) 2019-11-15 6:58

Bonjour Kasia,

Voici comment on tisse de la laine dans cette région. Cela semble rudimentaire mais efficace. La dame semble bien fičre de son habileté. Trčs joli cadrage.

Amicalement

Serge

jhm (211734) 2019-11-15 9:50

Hello Kasia,

This is a lovely grandmother with a wide smile.
Sure a friendly woman.
Excellent sharp and clear.
Very well dene, TFS.

Best regards,
John.

Tue (91658) 2019-11-15 13:43

Hello Kasia,
An excellent portrait of this lady. Superb sharpness and clarity and you had a fine lit as well, which made her stand out so well from the darker backdrop. Very well done.
Lars

PiotrF (54246) 2019-11-15 16:28

Czesc Kasiu
Ciekawy reportaz z Khorog, chociaz poki co dowiadujemy sie duzo o mieszkancach nie do konca znajac cel podrozy akurat do tego miasta ;)
Tolka za pogaduchy z Toba czekala krotka zsylka , tak zadecydowalo zgromadzenie kobiet ;)
Ciekawa prezentacja laczaca opowiesc ze swietnymi zdjeciami
pozdrawiam
Piotr

abmdsudi (95869) 2019-11-15 20:28

Hi Kasia
What a great face of a cotton spinner which you have portrayed well, particularly the expression, the clothing and lots of character this lady has. Enjoyed your description of how you came to take this photo, I think that's exactly the right way to do it., and it's an excellent capture! Congrats
Best regards

macjake (98262) 2019-11-16 11:47

Hi Kasia
wow, looking at the WS's he lives in a very nice house :)
that sounds like quite the experience! Funny how i just wrote a long critique on Marisuz's photo about languages, and now I come across another language focused post. So you speak fluid Russian? i'm so jealous. I only speak english I wish I could speak more than that. Anyways, sounds like you had an adventure, and you didn't even have to PAY for it, just hop in the car with Tolek and hang on for dear life! hahaha...another fine TE post! cheers
Craig

rychem (72187) 2019-11-16 21:11

Ciekawi ludzie, takie przygody i spotkania nie przytrafiaja sie w wielkich skupiskach turystow, ladny portret gospodyni i dobra opowiesc o ludziach
pozdrawiam Ryszard

ChrisJ (171340) 2019-11-17 6:04

Hello Kasia,

A good daily life scene from this remote area of Tajikistan. The woman holding the yarn seems to be quite a character! Turkish is also spoken in some parts of the country, but my Turkish is worse than your Russian! I also hope the cardiac specialists were able to help Tolek recover. Tfs!

sacimar (38173) 2019-11-19 4:23

Hello Kasia,

good images of this woman, her husband and their house... I like the scene with the wool device and her face expression, interesting note also... well done,

Best regards,

Sergio

fotka (8909) 2019-11-19 5:27

Witaj Kasiu,
Widze ze odwiedzasz kolejny kraj w Azji Centralnej. Po bardzo dlugiej podrozy do Khorog milo spedzilas czas w towarzystwie kobiety na zdjeciu i jej rodziny. A teraz ulotnilas sie na tydzien w nieznane. Czy to moze jest Badakhshan Narodowy Park?
Jestem zdziwiony jak prostego urzadzenia urzywa ta kobieta do przedzenia welny zazwyczaj robi sie to na kolowrotkach.
Udany portret lokalnej kobiety podczas pracy.
Pozdrowienia,
Zbigniew

GyurMaster (24682) 2019-11-19 14:25

Hello again,

Excellent portrait of this seemingly kind old lady. Her kind nature is underpinned by you notes too, describing her as a typical East-European grandmother, who are like: 'Why don't you eat? Are you sick?' :)

Have a nice evening!
Gy.

aliabazari (21387) 2019-11-23 21:07

Hi Kasia
Beauty portrait of this Tajik woman. Good text. Good luck.

COSTANTINO (115605) 2020-01-30 7:01

Hello dear Kasia and have a nice time
and a happy new day
original version
a photo bringing memories from
the past because a scenery
like this one is almost forgotten
in our days....
fine portrait in good light
you captured this lady
perfectly
regards
Costantino